Replica Shorts

PLEASE NOTE THAT THIS IS A PDF, NOT A READY KNITTED ITEM

ABOUT PATTERN

The Replica shorts are a knitted counterpart to their jersey cousin, sweat shorts. They incorporate all the best qualities of the beloved classic; high waist, wide elastic waistband, slouchy fit and decorative drawstrings! The Replica shorts really stand out for their fun multicolored look! Unleash your creativity with the color combinations, and create the perfect shorts to match your summer wardrobe! To work up these shorts you will need the Intarsia in the round technique for the main body part of the shorts, other than that, the waistband and both legs are worked normally in the round.

Level of difficulty: Intermediate

SIZES

1 (2) 3 (4) 5 (6) 7 (8) 9

GARMENT MEASUREMENTS

Approximate hip circumference: 85 (95) 105 (115) 125 (135) 145 (155) 160 cm [34 (38) 42 (46) 50 (54) 58 (62) 63 in]

Recommended ease: approx. 5 cm [2 in] of positive ease to your hip circumference.

SIZE GUIDE

The shorts are designed to have a relaxed fit. When choosing which size to knit, measure your hip circumference (the widest part of your lower body) and add 0-5 cm [0-2 in] of positive ease to that number. Compare your result with the garment’s hip circumference and choose the closest size. If you fall between sizes, size up or down according to your own preference.

The sizes 1 (2) 3 (4) 5 (6) 7 (8) 9 are equivalent to sizes XS (S) M (L) XL (2XL) 3XL (4XL) 5XL. They correspond to the hip circumference of approximately 80 (90) 100 (110) 120 (130) 140 (150) 155 cm [32 (36) 40 (44) 48 (52) 56 (60) 62 in]

SUGGESTED YARN

Aran weight cotton

The sample shorts are made using Drops Paris, 75 m = 50 g
4: Medium: Aran // 12 WPI

Feel free to use any cotton yarn with similar specifications that gives you the correct gauge.

Approximate material consumption by color:
COL A - Waistband 60 (65) 70 (70) 80 (85) 90 (95) 100 g
COL B - Right side 150 (150) 150 (150) 200 (200) 250 (300) 300 g
COL C - Left side 150 (150) 150 (150) 200 (200) 250 (300) 300 g
COL D - Drawstrings 5-15 g depending on the length

Notice that the estimates for the main colors are given in 50 g skeins. The amount for a gauge swatch is included in the calculations. 

GAUGE

In stockinette stitch using 5 mm [US 8] needles: 

17 sts x 22 rows = 10 x 10 [4 x 4 in]

Worked flat, measured after blocking.

If you tend to have large differences in your knitting tension between flat vs round, it is smart to work a test swatch also in the round and adjust the needle size if needed to keep the gauge consistent.

SUGGESTED NEEDLES

4 mm / 80 cm [US 6 / 32 in] or longer circular needles
5 mm / 80 cm [US 8 / 32 in] or longer circular needles
5 mm / 60 cm [US 8 / 24 in] circular needles

ADDITIONAL

-Crochet hook in the same or similar size to the circular needles for the provisional crochet cast on
- 2x double pointed needles in the same or similar size to the circular needles for the i-cord drawstrings
- Scrap yarn in a different color for the provisional crochet cast on
- 30 mm [1.18 in] wide elastic band for the waistband
- A length of sewing thread and a sewing needle for the elastic band
- 1 stitch marker
- Tapestry needle to weave in the ends
- Safety pin for inserting the i-cord inside the waistband

WORKFLOW

The shorts are worked from top down, in stockinette stitch.

You will start by preparing the elastic band for the waistband and then work the waistband in the round, including two small holes for the drawstrings.

Once the waistband is completed, you will start working on the body of the shorts. This part of the project is worked using the Intarsia in the round technique. Intarsia in the round means that while you are creating a round shape on circular needles, you are actually working both knit and purl rows, same as you would when knitting stockinette in flat. You will be going back and forth on your circular needles, while connecting the beginning and end of each row as you go, to maintain a round shape. (If you want an alternative for the Intarsia in the round technique, you can knit this part in flat and use the mattress stitch at the end to close the seam.)

Once the body of the shorts is worked to the correct length, the legs are separated and worked in the round one by one. Only thing left to do is to work up a long i-cord for the drawstrings.